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PostPosted: 28 Dec 2010, 09:38 
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Nexy Labyrinthos blade and Nexy Chaos 0.5 mm Testing

Initial Impression:

80-gm blade beautifully designed with high-quality finish. ST handle is very comfortable.

Bouncing ball on the BH side finds that it has a bit of hard feel. Paired with Tibhar Grass Dtecs OX (My competition long pimple) and had a hit. Wow, the feel is not that good as it gives me a sort of hard feel, which is not so comfortable when I chop. I couldn’t get the usual consistency and smooth feel like I use it on my Dr. Neubauer High Technology Plus or Giant Dragon Kris, which also has a thin layer of Koto.

Real Test:

Replaced DTecs OX with Nexy Chaos 0.5 mm on BH and Andro Hexer + 2.0 mm on FH, I had a go with Paul Moody, a looper. Immediately, the feel is much better and the consistency is improved. I am quite happy with the long pimple chop, swipe, block, hit and FH control loop with enough dwell time and hit. The thin sponge on Chaos does make a difference.

Conclusion:

It looks like this could be a combinational blade for a modern defender as you can see from my Youtube video. The FH away-from-table counter is awesome and powerful which I have not tried on this video. Personally, I don’t quite like stiff feel on the BH side. Perhaps, it could be the carbon layer, though on the FH side, has some impact on the Koto layer on the BH. Surprisingly, I find there is nothing much special with the Nexy Chaos 0.5mm long pimple rubber as I don’t seem to find much back spin, wobbling or reverse spin effect. Maybe I have to keep on searching a suitable OX long pimple for my needs on Labyrinthos.

Anyway, I do appreciate Mr. Moon from Nexy who gave me a chance to review his products, though not very much in-depth. Above mentioned is just my personal feeling and preference. Nevertheless, Nexy Labyrinthos is still a highly recommended blade for modern defenders




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PingpongStephen :) :) :)


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PostPosted: 30 Dec 2010, 11:22 
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pingpongstephen wrote:
Nexy Labyrinthos blade and Nexy Chaos 0.5 mm Testing

Initial Impression:

80-gm blade beautifully designed with high-quality finish. ST handle is very comfortable.

Bouncing ball on the BH side finds that it has a bit of hard feel. Paired with Tibhar Grass Dtecs OX (My competition long pimple) and had a hit. Wow, the feel is not that good as it gives me a sort of hard feel, which is not so comfortable when I chop. I couldn’t get the usual consistency and smooth feel like I use it on my Dr. Neubauer High Technology Plus or Giant Dragon Kris, which also has a thin layer of Koto.

Real Test:

Replaced DTecs OX with Nexy Chaos 0.5 mm on BH and Andro Hexer + 2.0 mm on FH, I had a go with Paul Moody, a looper. Immediately, the feel is much better and the consistency is improved. I am quite happy with the long pimple chop, swipe, block, hit and FH control loop with enough dwell time and hit. The thin sponge on Chaos does make a difference.

Conclusion:

It looks like this could be a combinational blade for a modern defender as you can see from my Youtube video. The FH away-from-table counter is awesome and powerful which I have not tried on this video. Personally, I don’t quite like stiff feel on the BH side. Perhaps, it could be the carbon layer, though on the FH side, has some impact on the Koto layer on the BH. Surprisingly, I find there is nothing much special with the Nexy Chaos 0.5mm long pimple rubber as I don’t seem to find much back spin, wobbling or reverse spin effect. Maybe I have to keep on searching a suitable OX long pimple for my needs on Labyrinthos.

Anyway, I do appreciate Mr. Moon from Nexy who gave me a chance to review his products, though not very much in-depth. Above mentioned is just my personal feeling and preference. Nevertheless, Nexy Labyrinthos is still a highly recommended blade for modern defenders




Cheers
PingpongStephen :) :) :)




Personally, I think LIOSSM SPECIAL (big size) will be better for you.
Labyrinthos is applicable more for push & blocking - close to the net- style players.
Any way, I hope you can like it.
Thank you for the nice review.


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PostPosted: 06 Jan 2011, 14:11 
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speedplay wrote:
Nexy and Pingpongstephen, I've moved the review to the blade section as well, as I think more people will see it there. Cause even though this is a review of a Nexy blade, it's still a blade and the review should be shared in that section so that people will see it.

I hope you don't mind this action, as I've made Pingpongstephen as the author of the post in the blade section as well.


Thank you very much, Speedplay.
I hope I can do somthing for this community.
And I will keep writing more.
Thank you and happy new year!!


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2011, 11:15 
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Long time no writing.

I feel sorry for not coming here often to write.
Any way, it does not mean that I'm not working.

Here I attach one image file.
This is a new blade called "calix"
This will be 5.5mm thick carbon blade.
I will continue to equip this blade with deep embracing touch, even though thin (and also with carbon layer) blade is not easy to get that deep impact feeling.

And I will try to make the feeling of returning ball heavy.
In many cases, if a blade is think and light, the returning ball is not much powerful, even though it can be fast.
But I think if I continue to equip this blade with deep impact feeling, then the returning ball can be fast and also heavy.

My test will be finished around next month...but the whole process will take more than 3 months.
So, Calix will come out many months later.
But I wish I could be lucky, then I will be able to find the best composition and size sooner than that 3 months.

I will report more later.

Image


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2011, 13:13 
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Blade: Donic Persson Power Play
FH: Donic Bluestorm Z3
BH: Tibhar Aurus Soft
Impressive handle design. Hopefully, I get a chance to visit within a week and see what you have cooking in the pipeline..

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2011, 14:03 
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Der_Echte wrote:
Impressive handle design. Hopefully, I get a chance to visit within a week and see what you have cooking in the pipeline..

Thank you ~^^

By the way, I will be out of Korea during the week.
And the sample will be at my hand maybe after several weeks later.
I will send a message to your phone when I get a sample worthy of your visiting.

Happy new year to you and your family!!


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2011, 22:57 
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Blade: Donic Persson Power Play
FH: Donic Bluestorm Z3
BH: Tibhar Aurus Soft
Alright, I'll figure out a way to make it to your HQ near the end of the month. My daughter just flew out today to go back to the States.

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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2011, 11:49 
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Der_Echte wrote:
Alright, I'll figure out a way to make it to your HQ near the end of the month. My daughter just flew out today to go back to the States.

I came to Korea today.
And I'm sorry I could not meet you...(Perhaps you could visit my office together with your daughter.)

By the way, Calix seems to take some more time.
I'm testing many woods now.
But you are welcome any time... (except for the cases I stay outside)


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2011, 11:49 
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Regarding Calix, I'm now checking TEAK wood for the surface. But Teak seems not easy to use. It's very oily, and not easy to cut nice.

I'm thinking I need to test another wood.
I have two woods in my mind. One is African Mahogany, and the other one is Aromatic coder.
Mahogany has been used for other blades, but Aromatic coder is very new.

I will give more details about these surface woods later on.


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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2011, 01:22 
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Blade: Donic Persson Power Play
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BH: Tibhar Aurus Soft
Maybe I make it this Monday. No work Monday. Yeah!!! Bus takes me right up to Savezone about 200 meters from your HQ. Start tuning your rubber or slap on some Calibra, I got better since my last visit.

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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2011, 12:41 
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WHAT happens when we make a big looping shot on our racket?

This is the topic I planned to write quite a long time ago, but I could not start until today.
I'm not a professional player, but I've been playing more than 20 years, and also I sometimes play with top players in Korea.
Besides, I had several chances to participate in Junior players training camps in Germany and Hungary, and I could have many chances to see how many players are playing in their own ways.

Basically, Korean players are always asked to make powerful shots.
They are not allowed to send back their ball with clumsy but steady way.
Even though they can lose one point, still they are expected to return it with big power and speed.
And from Korean players, I could learn how to make "Bang Impact".


("Bang Impact" is the term I made up with, in order to explain more about blade and rubbers. When you make "Bang Impact", the ball goes into the very wood through the rubber, and you can hear the sound coming from the impact on that wooden surface. It needs quick swing movement together with good angle and deep touch of the ball into the racket.)


And from European players, I could learn how they can handle their rackets that many ways, and how they can be steadily in all strokes.

I think some time later, I can write another report about the differances between Korea and Europe, and some useful information about Chinese training system.


By the way, regarding today's topic....

Many people believe that when we hit a ball with our racket, and if we want to make a good top-spin shot (looping), then we need to make a ball roll on the rubber as much longer as possible.
We might picture that the ball is rolling on the rubber, and we try to make it the moment of rolling longer as much as we can.

Image



This is the way most begginners and even some good players believe how we can make looping.
But just think more about it.
When we swing the racket, this racket is meeting the ball coming into itselt.
And the racket has a rubber and blade which are made to hit the ball with big speed.
So, the idea that the ball can roll on the rubber is really not possible.
If it stays in the rubber, that can not be rolling.
That can be a moment when the ball goes deep into the rubber, and get bounced off, and leave the rubber with quick movement.

So, I can say this way.
The ball does not roll on the rubber.
The ball is rather stabbed into the rubber reaching as much deep as it can , and then get kicked out by rubbers big energy which focus on it's original shape.

Here is another picture by which you can understand better what I meant.


Image





Actually, this bang impact is not only for some professional players.
Most loopings are happenning as the picture shows. But top players can make the ball goes deeper, even to the wooden surface.

If you start to understand these two pictures, then you would know why I focus on this "bang impact".
My blades' general purpose is to give you bigger chances for this bang impact.


I think many people will have some questions about these two pictures.
I'm not sure I can give right answer to all those questions, but I will wait for those questions.
And I will write more about this relating to my next blades, if I find some more topics from those questions.


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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2011, 14:29 
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BH: S&T Monkey ox
Nice article. Why would your blades have bigger "bang impact" than other blades?

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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2011, 15:08 
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Thank you for the inquiry.
It's not eay to answer with several words.
But it depends on the composition of each wood, and the thickness of each ply.
And material itself also affects on that.
But I have given many explanations about these factors in the before articles, so you can check more things there.

For an example, Hinoki, spcailly japanese hinoki wood has very good feature when you slice the ball with tiny impact.
But the feeling is not embracing the ball deep.
On the other hand, limba surface embraces the ball deep.
But it does not generate good spin on the slice touch.
So, I use different materials to modulate these different factors in the second and middle layers, with different thicknesses.

It's not very simple to answer, so I hope you can refer to my before writings.

By the way, the most important thing I include in the article is that I always think of this "bang impact".
I don't know if other brands also think of this factor when they design a blade...but from my expiriences, I can say only a few has this kind of concept for their blades.
And I think knowing and considering this factor will make some differance....and it will not be small.

Thank you again.


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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2011, 15:13 
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So if you had to recommend the perfect "bang attack" blade, which blade and rubbers would you recommend?

And, if you had to recommend the perfect "bang attack" blade on the forehand with OX long pips on the backhand which blade and rubbers would you recommend?

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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2011, 15:58 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
So if you had to recommend the perfect "bang attack" blade, which blade and rubbers would you recommend?

And, if you had to recommend the perfect "bang attack" blade on the forehand with OX long pips on the backhand which blade and rubbers would you recommend?


Thank you for the inquiry.

Regarding nexy blades, I can categorize into two.
The first age was focusing on "Japanese Hinoki".
Japanese Hinoki makes good "bang impact" in itself, so what I did was mostly aimed at how to support that good feature on the moderate or to the extreme ways.

And the second age was three blades I released in 2010.
They are Spear, Lissom and Labyrinthos.
Labyrinthos' forhand side is focusing on this aspect 100%.
This two limba layers backed by balsa and one ply carbon layer generates good spin on this short "bang impact" moment.

Regarding rubbers, I think this blade will welcome most popular rubbers.
It's not possible to give one answer, because everyone has different skill and movement...and even tastes are different, too.

By the way, if you let me know what you have been playing with, then I can tell you several rubbers onto the blade.
Thank you again.


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